Do you love maps as much as I do? If so, you’ll appreciate this fun tile coasters project.
Somehow with our 13 moves in 15 years to 7 different states, all of my four children were born in Missouri. My husband grew up there and we lived there a few different times, so it means a lot to us. I chose to use two maps that encompassed the cities in which my children were born. I only did two tile coasters because they were made specifically for our bedside tables and only needed two.
The amazing glossy surface in this photo can be a bit difficult to see since it’s clear, but you can see in the top left corner there is some shine, and the photos at the end of the post show it as well. You’ll see how gorgeous it is.
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Alright, so here’s the supply list:
- Tiles – I used Travertine tiles that I got from the local hardware store in a small pack.
- Maps – I found some at a local thrift store.
- Ultra -Seal Multi Purpose Glue OR Mod Podge Waterbase Sealer, Matte Finish
- Disposable Craft Brushes
- Wooden stir sticks with flat end
- Disposable measuring cups for mixing resin
- Disposable tray or box for excess resin to pour into. You don’t not want it to leak onto your work surface! (I used a cardboard box lined with Glad press n seal.)
- Something disposable to elevate your workpiece – I used small pieces of wood and just threw them out afterward.
- Envirotex Lite
- Felt fabric or pads for the bottom of the coaster
Alright, so the first thing is to cut your map pieces to fit your tiles. Leave a border of tile on the edges by cutting smaller than they tile, or just cut it to fit to the edges, either way works..
Next, take your Ultra-Seal or ModPodge and spread an even coat across the entire tile. I was sure to add enough to fill in the small holes on the travertine tiles. This will help prevent extra bubbles developing during the epoxy stage.
As soon as you have the Ultra-Sealcoating the tile, take your map images and press them into the wet Ultra Seal as evenly as possible. Push out any bubbles, then apply the glue over the paper maps as well! Let dry. I let mine dry overnight.
And here’s what you have:
Prepping for Envirotex Lite:
Alright, so the next step is to make sure your work surface is protected. As you can see in my images I had the tiles resting on small pieces of wood (be sure this doesn’t touch the edges as epoxy will seep onto the underside. ) I used a cardboard box lined with Glad Press n Seal, and it worked perfectly.
Be sure you have all your epoxy resin supplies so that you don’t have any reason to need to jump up and grab something while in the mixing process. This would be the mixing cups, stir sticks, craft brushes, work surface protection, and Envirotex Lite.
Adding Envirotex Lite:
I’ll run through the steps, which are pretty simple and easy to do, but be sure to read the directions thoroughly. The only reason is that there are a few things like temperature or time that have strict guidelines for a perfect cure of the resin.
In the box you’ll find two bottles, one Part A which is the resin and Part B which is the hardener. Pour part A into your disposable measuring cup and follow that with the exact same amount of part B. It is important to get equal amounts. Stir them together with your stir stick for a few minutes. At first it will seem a bit cloudy, but as it mixes it will become more clear. Don’t worry about the bubbles just yet!
After everything is stirred together, pour the mix into another cup and stir again. This ensures that you don’t have any unmixed resin or hardener going onto your project, which will make for an uneven cure and possibly sticky spots.
After you stir that for a bit, then you’re ready to pour! Be sure that your work pieces is completely level and that your work surface is protected, then begin pouring in the center of the tile and move slowly outward. The epoxy will begin to pour off the edges, which is what it is supposed to do!
The Envirotex Lite will self-level (as long as your piece is level) but there will be many drips coming off the sides. Just use your craft brush to wipe those off as they appear. I waited for a minute or two then went and wiped the drips until it stopped dripping.
Curing Tile Coasters:
The final step is the somehow cover your project to prevent any dust or debris from landing on the wet resin. I used some tall bottles and laid a flat box over the top, then carefully draped fabric over top to make a sort of tent. Just be careful as even your fabric can have dust particles that will land on the resin. Alright, so you let it cure for at least 24-36 hours. Maybe longer if your room is chilly and not above 70 degrees.
Finished! Two awesome coasters that will hold drinks and prevent water stains on my bedside tables. Definitely worth the time, because they mean a lot and are so cool looking too!
If you decide to make your own coasters, be sure to share! The coolest thing is that you can use any type of paper, like a photo or ticket stub or designed paper to get any look that you want. I just happen to love maps.
If you like this project, please PIN this image!
(This project was originally posted by me on ResinCraftsBlog.com.)
Maker. DIY Blogger. Artist.
Sheri has been creating all of her life in various ways and finds great purpose and empowerment in creating something new. When she’s not in the workshop or craft room she is making memories with her husband, four kids, perfect dog and ornery cat.